BEC

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (g9m3c) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 19:44:34 GMT

Twister Chassis wrote:
Link basically has nothing to do with loss of power it is rotating mass joint angle. Two short of drive shaft increases joint angle making it harder to keep with the end the bounds you need to keep from losing power. Drag cars that run real short drive shafts used we have very little movement in the rear end

Yea, I'm aware that there will have to be limited rear end movement, but...

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (Twister Chassis) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 19:36:30 GMT

Link basically has nothing to do with loss of power it is rotating mass joint angle. Two short of drive shaft increases joint angle making it harder to keep with the end the bounds you need to keep from losing power. Drag cars that run real short drive shafts used we have very little movement in the rear end

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (TEXASM) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 19:26:45 GMT

THE DRIVE SHAFTS ARE MADE USING THE FLANGE AND SLIP YOKE FOR A POWER TAKE OFF ON ONE END AND A TOYOTA YOKE ON THE BACK. MOST GOOD DRIVE SHAFT SHOPS CAN MAKE ONE UP. THE SLIP JOINT IS MADE BY SPICER. COST AROUND $300.00 FOR ALL THE PARTS AND LABOR. YOU CAN BUY THE SHAFTS FROM MOST OF THE CAR BUILDERS ON THIS SITE, CUSTOM LENGTHS ARE AVAILABLE ON ORDER.

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (g9m3c) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 14:22:53 GMT

And I'm thinking it's going to be a really short driveshaft because I'm going to try to keep this thing mid-engined like I had originally intended. Not only will this give better traction because of more weight over the rear wheels, but it'll also transfer a lot more power to the rear wheels because of less mass in the drivetrain.

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (g9m3c) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 14:11:53 GMT

Jeff14R wrote:
After you know how long of a drive shaft you will need find a driveline shop, 4x4 shop or a NAPA and get one made. I don't remember the part numbers for the flanges, 44Dwarf probably knows. I would think if it is going to be longer than what one of our cars run or your going to use it in a drag type car I would go with a 2 piece setup with a carrier bearing.

Yea, I just need to know where to...

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (Jeff14R) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 14:00:33 GMT

After you know how long of a drive shaft you will need find a driveline shop, 4x4 shop or a NAPA and get one made. I don't remember the part numbers for the flanges, 44Dwarf probably knows. I would think if it is going to be longer than what one of our cars run or your going to use it in a drag type car I would go with a 2 piece setup with a carrier bearing.

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (g9m3c) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 12:23:49 GMT

Army01s: I wish they would have had more pictures of that thing, especially of the driveline setup.

I still need to know where to find these flanges though, can anyone help me with that? Also, it'd be great if someone had some pictures of their complete driveline showing from the back of the engine all the way to the 3rd member. Thanks for all the help so far guys, I definitely came to the right place!

P.S. Tfracer and justfreaky, I'm about to respond to both of...

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (justfreaky) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 04:37:26 GMT

I'm also building a non-traditional car.
Email me,
justfreaky@bresnan.net

Steve

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (Army01s) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 03:11:52 GMT

Go look at this car its like what you want to do
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/545757799.html

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (Tfracer9898) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 00:29:11 GMT

Check your private messages in your inbox. I left you a message. Thanks,

Tommy Felicia

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (g9m3c) — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 22:18:29 GMT

44Dwarf wrote:
You use a drive shaft with a slip joint in it just like a 4x4 drive shaft. both ends have 4 bolt flanges on the ends. In the early days you chucked up a sprocket and turned a sholder on it then welded a ujoint yoke to it in hoped it ran true when you were done. Its much nicer just to call Dave on the phone and get on sent out.

44

Where can I buy these driveshafts and do they...

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (44Dwarf) — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 22:13:23 GMT

You use a drive shaft with a slip joint in it just like a 4x4 drive shaft. both ends have 4 bolt flanges on the ends. In the early days you chucked up a sprocket and turned a sholder on it then welded a ujoint yoke to it in hoped it ran true when you were done. Its much nicer just to call Dave on the phone and get on sent out.

44

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (g9m3c) — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 17:53:00 GMT

eracer12 wrote:
The driveshaft bolts right up to the adapter which is held onto the output shaft by the stock nut that held the spocket originally. Its not the typical slide joint that goes into an automitive type transmission. The drive shaft does use a slide joint that attaches to the flange for the adapter. I assume it is the same bolt pattern as the rear flange trhat bolts up to the 3rd member. As far as which one fits your...

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (eracer12) — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 17:48:34 GMT

The driveshaft bolts right up to the adapter which is held onto the output shaft by the stock nut that held the spocket originally. Its not the typical slide joint that goes into an automitive type transmission. The drive shaft does use a slide joint that attaches to the flange for the adapter. I assume it is the same bolt pattern as the rear flange trhat bolts up to the 3rd member. As far as which one fits your motor, I am not sure. I bet ya Hawk could tell you, or you may have to look it...

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (g9m3c) — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 15:40:14 GMT

Ok, I see what you're saying with the adapter and using no chain. But what bolts to the adapter? Do they make a flange with a u-joint that the driveshaft joins onto? Also, what holds the adapter to the bike output shaft? Set screws or what? And, how do I know which adapter fits my engine? There is a 25 mm 13 spline, 28mm 12 spline, and 30mm 13 spline. Thanks a lot for the help, btw.

Re: BEC

feeds@yuku.com (eracer12) — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 15:03:39 GMT

The bike sprocket is removed and an adapter is mounted in the same place. (Hawk is one manufacturer) Another method is simply a sprocket with the teeth cut off, welded onto a round tube, on the other end you weld a flange for the driveshaft to hook up too. Personally for the $75-$100 I would just buy the one from Hawk. Then the drive shaft runs down the rignt hand side of the car in a tunnel next too the seat, this allows the seat to sit lower in the car. The rear end and axles are shortened...

BEC

feeds@yuku.com (g9m3c) — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 13:08:23 GMT

Hello everybody, this is my first post here. I am currently building a bec (bike engined car) using the engine off of an '02 Kawasaki ZX-R1200. I have become increasingly interested in the driveline setup of a dwarf car for my bec. Does anyone have a link to a site showing the technical breakdown of the driveline setup used on a dwarf car? I know the motors are turned so that the crank is longitudinal with the car and a driveshaft is used going to usually a Toyota rear end. I've seen...