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 dwarfracingfan |
right front spring |
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Posts: 23 (07/03/08 09:45 PM) |
I have a old dwarf car and I see were some of the modlites run a softer spring on the right front. Most every one I know runs a little heavier one there. It looks like it needs to be heavier to me because it where all the weight goes when you go in the turn. Does it make it handle better? Or is that for a flat track or a banked track? |
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SS39 |
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Posts: 901 (07/04/08 04:29 PM) |
It's not that the RF is soft, but that the LF is stiffer, to help keep pressure or weight on the RR. It also helps with forward bite, when exiting the
corners by transfering weight from the front to rear.
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Docracer3 |
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Posts: 1033 (07/04/08 05:44 PM) |
IMCA books and GRT set up sheets give as a basic set up to have the stiffer spring on the Right Front and less stiff on Left Front. Pro Modlite and Lightening
Modlite set up sheets say 200 on the LF and 175 on the RF. In our group, I see both the softer and the stiffer spring set ups on the RF. Personally, I prefer
the RF with the heavier spring bc it seems that the car bogs down and is harder to turn with the weaker spring on the RF. You have to also keep in mind your
shock compression and rebound rates although this only affects the speed of weight change. I use my shock travel indicators as a guide as to which spring goes
where. If a spring on the RF with a 50/50 shock is nearly bottomed out (and way out of proportion) with a softer spring then I take that to mean it needs to
be a little firmer to support the weight transfer to the RF. Most of the time with a 3030 or 2040 shock on the RF with the 200# spring the travel indicators
are not overly out of proportion to the rest of the corners. I like the 180# or 190 # spring on the LF with a 2020 shock. I have started going heavier on the
rear springs mainly bc my car has more Rear % than most and needs the extra support for overall balance. I constantly reset the shock travel indicators and
look around the car to see how the weight transfer is balanced until I find a spring combo that is with 50/50 shocks on all 4 corners. After I find this, then
I may fine tune shocks on a particular corner depending on the track we are at. I am finding this to be a very efficient method and simple.
With this said, there are some who like the soft springs down the right side, and the heavier springs down the left side...which I hear per Late Model drivers....they like to use pin down shocks down the right side and 50/50 or easy up shocks down the left side. I would believe this would have to be a real dry slick set up to get more weight transfer and bite to the right side of the car. I tried this on the rear once. And under acceleration the darn car just wanted to keep going out to the right. Felt really weird. So, I don't know if this is one is true and I need to see this shock/spring combos first hand to believe it. There may be some secret to this set up but I don't know what it is....yet.
Last Edited By: Docracer3
07/04/08 06:33 PM.
Edited 3 times.
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tb1545 |
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Posts: 64 (07/05/08 12:27 AM) |
whichever spring is heavier is the spring thats going to get planted more, so for a tacky track you want to plant your right front to create a pivot point to
turn around the corners on......A softer right front spring is better for a dry slick track. Obviously this is generally speaking, there are lots of other
variables in this equation, but this is the general rule......and full sized modifieds around here actually put a lighter spring on to almost intentionally
bottom out their right front on dry slicks. putting a lighter spring and going with a pindown shock on the RF really makes the car want to push and works on a
dryslick
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Docracer3 |
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Posts: 1036 (07/05/08 03:10 PM) |
I have seen this but have been reluctant to try it for the dryslick. I have always done the easy up on the RF on the dryslick. My RR is always softer than
the LR. I believe this Pin downs on the right side to be true with the soft springs as well. According to my Late Model source, who has done well, this is
the norm.
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dwarfracingfan |
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Posts: 25 (07/10/08 04:48 PM) |
Thanks for the help.... We need all we can get
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tb1545 |
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Posts: 67 (07/10/08 11:05 PM) |
4 bar late models and our 3 link cars are completely different setups. ive used hold ups on the left rear before just to make the car more predictable and get
rid of that on the gas tight and off the gas really lose syndrome. Doc try running some lower number shocks on the front end. it doesnt throw the weight to the
rear as fast. a lot of weight transfer helps hook up on a tacky surface, but you want less weight transfer on dryslick or else you will break the tire contact
patches loose. shocks are just timing devices. so the lower number ones resist movement and dont transfer weight as fast. which makes lighter rear springs not
bottom out as much, if you start raising those shock numbers to say a 5050 youre going to have to go with a heavier spring to counteract the faster weight
transfer. and im not sure what you have for rear percentage, but ive seen 100 lb right rear springs with 63% rear percentage do great because they can get
extra weight on the rear, but it doesnt transfer so fast that it doesnt do any good.
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Docracer3 |
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Posts: 1041 (07/11/08 04:34 AM) |
I meant by 50/50 to be like a 2020 or 3030 not a 5050. I have 60% rear. Usually I set the shocks up like this for an all around package:
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