Hello everybody, this is my first post here. I am currently building a bec (bike engined car) using the engine off of an '02 Kawasaki ZX-R1200. I have
become increasingly interested in the driveline setup of a dwarf car for my bec. Does anyone have a link to a site showing the technical breakdown of the
driveline setup used on a dwarf car? I know the motors are turned so that the crank is longitudinal with the car and a driveshaft is used going to usually a
Toyota rear end. I've seen the driveshaft adapters with a 4 bolt flange on them, but not real sure where this goes and how it is used. Also, I have no clue
how the chain drive is converted to shaft drive at the front of the car. I'm guessing there is some sort of sprocket and chain setup? Basically, I just
need some pictures and basic info. Thanks everyone. -g9m3c
BEC
| Author | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|
 g9m3c |
BEC |
Lead | |
|
Posts: 1 (01/26/08 01:08 PM) |
|
||
|
eracer12 |
|||
|
Posts: 23 (01/26/08 03:03 PM) |
The bike sprocket is removed and an adapter is mounted in the same place. (Hawk is one manufacturer) Another method is simply a sprocket with the teeth cut
off, welded onto a round tube, on the other end you weld a flange for the driveshaft to hook up too. Personally for the $75-$100 I would just buy the one from
Hawk. Then the drive shaft runs down the rignt hand side of the car in a tunnel next too the seat, this allows the seat to sit lower in the car. The rear end
and axles are shortened on the right hand side and lengthend on the left side. There is no chain used in the setup.
|
||
|
g9m3c |
|||
|
Posts: 2 (01/26/08 03:40 PM) |
Ok, I see what you're saying with the adapter and using no chain. But what bolts to the adapter? Do they make a flange with a u-joint that the driveshaft
joins onto? Also, what holds the adapter to the bike output shaft? Set screws or what? And, how do I know which adapter fits my engine? There is a 25 mm 13
spline, 28mm 12 spline, and 30mm 13 spline. Thanks a lot for the help, btw.
|
||
|
eracer12 |
|||
|
Posts: 24 (01/26/08 05:48 PM) |
The driveshaft bolts right up to the adapter which is held onto the output shaft by the stock nut that held the spocket originally. Its not the typical slide
joint that goes into an automitive type transmission. The drive shaft does use a slide joint that attaches to the flange for the adapter. I assume it is the
same bolt pattern as the rear flange trhat bolts up to the 3rd member. As far as which one fits your motor, I am not sure. I bet ya Hawk could tell you, or
you may have to look it up in the service manual for that motor. What exactly are you building? Good luck, and let us know how the project turns out.
|
||
|
g9m3c |
|||
|
Posts: 3 (01/26/08 05:53 PM) |
eracer12 wrote: It's going to be a home made car that will likely be used for drag racing and just having some fun. I'll definitely have to contact Hawk about that adapter. And also, what kind of driveshaft do I need to use? Where can I buy one? I'm definitely going to keep this updated. Thanks again for the help! |
||
|
44Dwarf |
|||
|
Posts: 923 (01/26/08 10:13 PM) |
You use a drive shaft with a slip joint in it just like a 4x4 drive shaft. both ends have 4 bolt flanges on the ends. In the early days you chucked up a
sprocket and turned a sholder on it then welded a ujoint yoke to it in hoped it ran true when you were done. Its much nicer just to call Dave on the phone and
get on sent out.
44 |
||
|
g9m3c |
|||
|
Posts: 4 (01/26/08 10:18 PM) |
44Dwarf wrote: Where can I buy these driveshafts and do they come with the flanges? What about custom lengths? Or do I need to just make the driveshafts then attach these flanges that I buy? |
||
|
Tfracer9898 |
G9m3c | ||
|
Posts: 212 (01/27/08 12:29 AM) |
Check your private messages in your inbox. I left you a message. Thanks,
Tommy Felicia |
||
|
Army01s |
|||
|
Posts: 5 (01/27/08 03:11 AM) |
Go look at this car its like what you want to do
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/545757799.html |
||
|
justfreaky |
|||
|
Posts: 98 (01/27/08 04:37 AM) |
I'm also building a non-traditional car.
Email me, justfreaky@bresnan.net Steve |
||
|
g9m3c |
|||
|
Posts: 5 (01/27/08 12:23 PM) |
Army01s: I wish they would have had more pictures of that thing, especially of the driveline setup.
I still need to know where to find these flanges though, can anyone help me with that? Also, it'd be great if someone had some pictures of their complete driveline showing from the back of the engine all the way to the 3rd member. Thanks for all the help so far guys, I definitely came to the right place! P.S. Tfracer and justfreaky, I'm about to respond to both of you, thanks! |
||
|
Jeff14R |
|||
|
Posts: 310 (01/27/08 02:00 PM) |
After you know how long of a drive shaft you will need find a driveline shop, 4x4 shop or a NAPA and get one made. I don't remember the part numbers for
the flanges, 44Dwarf probably knows. I would think if it is going to be longer than what one of our cars run or your going to use it in a drag type car I would
go with a 2 piece setup with a carrier bearing.
|
||
|
g9m3c |
|||
|
Posts: 6 (01/27/08 02:11 PM) |
Jeff14R wrote: Yea, I just need to know where to get these flanges. We can make a driveshaft for it, but we just need the flanges. |
||
|
g9m3c |
|||
|
Posts: 7 (01/27/08 02:22 PM) |
And I'm thinking it's going to be a really short driveshaft because I'm going to try to keep this thing mid-engined like I had originally intended. Not only will this give better traction because of more weight over the rear wheels, but it'll also transfer a lot more power to the rear wheels because of less mass in the drivetrain. |
||
|
TEXASM |
DRIVE SHAFT | ||
|
Posts: 287 (01/27/08 07:26 PM) |
THE DRIVE SHAFTS ARE MADE USING THE FLANGE AND SLIP YOKE FOR A POWER TAKE OFF ON ONE END AND A TOYOTA YOKE ON THE BACK. MOST GOOD DRIVE SHAFT SHOPS CAN MAKE
ONE UP. THE SLIP JOINT IS MADE BY SPICER. COST AROUND $300.00 FOR ALL THE PARTS AND LABOR. YOU CAN BUY THE SHAFTS FROM MOST OF THE CAR BUILDERS ON THIS SITE,
CUSTOM LENGTHS ARE AVAILABLE ON ORDER.
|
||
|
Twister Chassis |
|||
|
Posts: 167 (01/27/08 07:36 PM) |
Link basically has nothing to do with loss of power it is rotating mass joint angle. Two short of drive shaft increases joint angle making it harder to keep
with the end the bounds you need to keep from losing power. Drag cars that run real short drive shafts used we have very little movement in the rear end
Twister chassis
|
||
|
g9m3c |
|||
|
Posts: 8 (01/27/08 07:44 PM) |
Twister Chassis wrote: Yea, I'm aware that there will have to be limited rear end movement, but it'll be a worthy trade off for the amount of traction a mid engine design offers. And rotating mass does in fact lead to loss in the power that is put to the ground. Look under any high dollar drag car and you'll see an aluminum shaft. Basically, any time you can take mass out of the drivetrain, the better. Same theory applies with lightened flywheels, etc. |
||
