say for last handfull of years i've been useing a high dollar synth. now my team is @ 4 cars looking to economis have any thoughts ?
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engine oil choice
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 fox8 |
engine oil choice |
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Posts: 130 (03/17/08 07:26 PM) |
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CHUCK |
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Posts: 396 (03/17/08 07:49 PM) |
I RUN THE "HIGH DOLLAR SYNTHETICS" BUT I RUN THE OIL FOR A SEASON AT A TIME SO IN THE END IT IS CHEAPER THAN THE "LOW DOLLAR" STUFF.
I'VE RUN NEO 40# RACING OIL FOR 14 YEARS THIS WAY WITH NO FAILURES. THE LAST 3 YEARS I'VE RUN 2 CARS. ONE WITH AN OIL COOLED ENGINE AND ONE THAT IS
WATER COOLED. I'M SURE THAT I'M GOING TO HEAR ALL KINDS OF FLACK ABOUT THE LENGTH OF TIME THAT I RUN THE OIL BUT WHEN I'VE TORN DOWN THE MOTOR, TO
"FRESHEN" THEM UP, ALL MY BEARINGS AND CRANK LOOK AND MIC GOOD. SO...
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95Fundevil |
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Posts: 422 (03/17/08 08:02 PM) |
I run the Chevron Delo. It is made for extreme loads. I use the multigrade 20-50. Here is a link. http://www.chevrondelo.com/en/products/engineoil/default.asp It is made for high RPM motors.
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Invader Modlite Parts |
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Posts: 36 (03/17/08 09:50 PM) |
I personally run Castrol syntec full synthetic 1040w oil. I know people that also run Amsoil 1040w motorcycle oil with 100% success also. Thanks,
Tommy Felicia |
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Invader Modlite Parts |
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Posts: 42 (03/18/08 01:14 AM) |
Fox check you Private messages. Thanks,
Tommy Felicia |
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44Dwarf |
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Posts: 952 (03/18/08 06:08 AM) |
9 years on an oil coooled GSXR1052 using Castrol GTX 20-50. Changed every 4 to 5 race weekends.
I belive the only reson the motor let go was a change in carbuation as the replacment did not run with the "new carbs" Had to go back to the old lectrons. 44
"Smok'in the competition NOT Tobacco"
"Transplant organs, Don't bury them!" Not to be confused with dwarf44, 44 or Buck44 |
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TXDwarf07 |
Motorcycle Oil | ||
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Posts: 47 (03/18/08 03:20 PM) |
If you look at the manual for a motorcycle it calls for a certain spec. (SF or SG in my case). Car motor oil, even synthetic, does not meet those specs. I have
been told the reason for different oil is the clutch which shares the oil with the engine, unlike a car. Motorcycle oil is less likely to cause the clutch to
slip. Does anyone know what this means and if it is significant or important?
If there an additive which makes auto oil compatible with motorcycle engines? |
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CHUCK |
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Posts: 402 (03/18/08 04:24 PM) |
THERE WAS AN ARTICLE IN THE MOTORCYCLE MAGAZINE THAT TESTED A NUMBER OF THE OILS BOTH SYNTHETIC PETROLANE, MOTRCYCLE LISTED AND AUTOMOTIVE LISTED. THEY FOUND
THAT THERE WERE NO DIFFERENCE IN HOW THE MOTOR, CLUTCHES OR GEARS WORKED BETWEEN THE AUTO AND MOTORCYCLE OILS. THEY DID SAY THAT THE SYNTHETICS SEEMED BETTER
UNDER THE HEAT.THAT SAID YOU CAN EITHER BELEIVE IT NOT. I STILL USE THEY SYNTHETIC AND NEO IN PARTICULAR.
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SS39 |
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Posts: 814 (03/18/08 10:05 PM) |
I run Valvoline's "motorcycle specific" oil available in 10w-40 and 20w-50. I get it at AutoZone and is only 2.10 a quart. Not a synthetic, but
it holds up well. I don't change my oil nearly as often as others, because I run methanol for fuel, so it doesn't foul the oil with carbon. I change it
about once a month, and the filter every other change. I've had no mechanical issues with my ZRX1200 with rev limit set at 12,000 RPM's.
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Steve Moriarty.ddccmessageboard |
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Posts: 2 (03/19/08 07:11 AM) |
25 years building and racing motorcycles I can say with absolute certainty......Engines running motorcycle specific oils always look better inside when they
come apart, specially the trannys. Motorcycle oils run special polymers and additives designed to deal with the crushing forces of the transmisions. The
exception to this seems to be full synthetics........they are all very good, and engines always look better aving been run on synthetic.
Steve |
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 jjh74 |
oil | ||
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Posts: 19 (03/20/08 11:18 PM) |
I run Royal Purple 20/50, I have blown 2 engines in the last 3 months. The first engine blew because the car sat in below freezing temps for 3 months, but
the other engine only had 1 race on it and ran cool and it never hit the rev. the whole race( 2004 gsxr).I wonder if it is the oil?
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